Café Culture Across Western Europe
The way you start the day says a lot about the city you are in.
When I moved to Florence, Italy in 2014, I spent my first few weeks doing two things: walking the city to understand the cultural vibe of its people and shivering as my roommates and I didn’t have heating or hot water but that’s a story for another time. What I did have was endless cobblestone streets to explore, a crash course in Italian, and a desire to understand the heartbeat of the city. And very quickly, I realized: that cultural center is at the local café.
Whether I was heading to my Italian class in the morning, picking up a freshly cut pasta at Mercato Centrale, or walking through the city at night with a bottle of wine tucked in my canvas bag en route to meet friends, the café was always at the center of it all. Wanting to blend into my new Italian surroundings the best I could as a blonde hair, blue eyed American, I made a habit of frequenting the local cafés for a quick espresso before class and again in the afternoon for an apero with classmates.
Even now, years and many countries later, I am still called to the magic of the european café. No matter where we travel, I always make a point to visit a few cafes. Of course for the coffee but also to soak in the morning ritual of the people in the city. Each city has its own way of “doing” café culture, and I love seeing how locals start or wind down their day.
While many cafes eventually flow into apero hour in the late afternoon, this post is all about the morning cafe. I will save the aperos for next time!
La Dolce Vita starts with an Espresso
The quickest way to stand out as a tourist in Italy is to order a coffee to-go or to sit down at a table with it. In Florence, an espresso is meant to be enjoyed standing at the bar, elbow to elbow with the locals. At first, I was completely confused by the process and made many coffee faux-pas before I finally understood the Italian way. Order your coffee directly with the barista who is flying around behind the bar at the speed of a Formula 1 pit crew. And then after savoring your espresso, you pay at the register. The whole process, although appearing chaotic, flows seamlessly just like the perfectly pressed espresso you are now enjoying. Pair it with a cornetto alla marmellata (Italy’s version of a croissant, filled with marmalade) and you’re set. One of my favorite spots with history and hustle is Caffé Gilli, nestled Piazza della Repubblicca.
In Spain, the café is for socializing, taking a break, and recharging. It is quickly recognized that the café is frequented multiple times throughout the day for a café solo (espresso) or cortado (espresso cut with warm milk). In Barcelona, I quickly fell in love with their appreciation for outdoor terraces and the unspoken rule that coffee is meant to be enjoyed, not rushed. Start the morning with a napolitana, a flaky pastry roll filled with chocolate. If you find yourself in the El Born neighborhood, try Cafes El Magnifico. The funky vibe paired with the boho charm offers the perfect terrace for people watching.
The Parisians know how to café correctly. I think I know why Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote some of their best novels in Paris—they had to have been inspired after a few hours tucked into a corner café in Saint-Germain. The Parisian café, known for its bistro-style set-up, is perfect for drinking a café au lait slowly and reading a book or taking in the scene around you. Of course you must pair your coffee with a perfect buttery croissant. My favorite spots are tucked down the alleys of Saint-Germain, like Bar du Marché.
Finally, to the Swiss cafes! I will admit, when we first moved to Switzerland, I wasn’t sure my beloved café culture lived here. I have quickly learned that the Swiss are shaped by the cultures around them, and this is ever present in how their people “café”. You will see locals ordering at the bar or lingering on the terrace with views of the Alps. As for me, I am a cappuccino on the terrace type of girl. And there is no better place for this than Café de Grancy in Lausanne. Sit outside with a croissant amande (almond croissant) and take in the Swiss version of the morning hustle. A few of my other favorite? Try Ça Passe Creme or FripSquare for coffee that in a hip setting or Coffee Page that is nestled on a pedestrian street that is too inviting to not stop in.
No matter where I go, cafés continue to be my favorite way to take in the local life. Whether it is fast and functional or slow and social, the café is more than a coffee stop, it’s a cultural ritual. Where is your favorite café in the world?!
