Demystifying Bourgogne Wine
Have you ever been at a nice restaurant, glanced at the French wine section, and had no idea what the differences were between the wines? You’re not alone. I’ll try to shed some light on one of the most famous wine regions in France in hopes that you’ll feel a bit more confident the next time you’re ordering a nice bottle of wine.
The wine region of Bourgogne (Burgundy) is world-renowned. In my experience in the US, the Bordeaux region tends to be more familiar and sought after, but Burgundy wines are top notch and make for an amazing alternative when you want to enjoy a great French bottle.
I’ll skip the deep history of Bourgogne for now, although it's incredibly rich and deeply tied to its vineyards and winemaking traditions. If you’re curious, I highly recommend diving into it or planning a visit to the region. It’s well worth the effort.
Bourgogne is split into several sub-regions: Chablis, Côte d’Or (which includes Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, the most famous areas), Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais, and Beaujolais. The region is best known for two main grape varietals: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. There’s also some production of Aligoté and a few other lesser-known varietals, but they represent a small fraction of total output. Each area focuses either on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, or a mix of both.
Let’s zoom in on the Côte d’Or, specifically the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, since these are the most well-known globally.
In Bourgogne, wines are classified into four levels, based on the specific “climats” (small, precisely defined plots of land used for growing grapes). These classifications were determined long ago by local wine authorities, based on terroir — the combination of soil, sub-climate, elevation, and other natural elements that influence the final wine. The higher the classification, the more highly regarded the appellation (designation) for its complexity and quality.
The Classifications
1. Regional Appellation
This is the base level. Any wine made from grapes grown anywhere in the region falls into this category. These vineyards are often in valley floors or on less favorable slopes, with soil and climate conditions that aren’t as ideal as the higher appellations. You’ll find “Bourgogne” written on the label, indicating a regional wine.
These wines make up the largest share of production and are typically more affordable. Prices still vary depending on vintage, winemaker, and vineyard quality. Don’t let the label fool you. There are some hidden gems in this category.
2. Village Appellation
Next up are the wines labeled with the name of a specific village. These villages are scattered along the slopes of the region’s hills and offer better growing conditions than many regional plots. These wines are a step up in quality, and you’ll see the name of the village (like Meursault, Volnay, or Gevrey-Chambertin) featured on the bottle.
Prices can range quite a bit at this level depending on the reputation of the village, the vineyard, the winemaker, and the vintage.
3. Premier Cru
Now we’re getting into the fancy stuff. Premier Cru wines come from specific climats within a village that have been identified as having superior terroir. On the label, you’ll see the name of the village along with either “Premier Cru” or “1er Cru.”
Sometimes, the only thing separating a Premier Cru plot from a Village Appellation one is a dirt path, but the Premier Cru climat has better growing conditions. These wines can vary greatly in price depending on how sought after the village or vineyard is. For example, Pommard in Côte de Beaune produces some exquisite and expensive Premier Cru Pinot Noirs.
4. Grand Cru
This is the top tier. The crème de la crème of Burgundy wines. Grand Cru climats are limited in both number and size, making up less than 2 percent of total wine production in the region.
These are found only in a few villages with the most exceptional terroir. Côte de Nuits, known for its Pinot Noir reds, has a high concentration of Grand Cru vineyards. On the label, you’ll see the name of the Grand Cru without needing the village name because these plots are so famous they stand alone.
Expect to pay upwards of €100 even for lesser-known Grand Cru bottles. If you’re celebrating or want to impress, this is where to look.
I’ve included a graphic below that sums up the classification system nicely. While Grand Cru wines are exceptional, don’t overlook the rest of the region. Bourgogne Regional Appellation wines can be delicious and offer great value. I’ve also added some label examples to help you spot the differences, whether you’re at a wine shop or reading a carte des vins at a restaurant.
